# Lysigin??



## EmyAcres (Jul 3, 2013)

Hey I am trying to get ready to breed my girls and I have read from birth to kidding by Vicki and I plan on doing BO-SE and CD&T vaccines but also read about doing lysigin on virgin does and just wanted to ask how many of yaw do that or if it is definitely beneficial and something I should do? Thank you for all your advice in advance!!


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## Greylady (Mar 28, 2012)

I give Lysigin to mine.


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## swgoats (May 21, 2010)

What is it/what is it for? Obviously I don't, lol.


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## MF-Alpines (Mar 29, 2010)

Lysigin is a vaccination for staph aureous. I do give it.


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## EmyAcres (Jul 3, 2013)

Ok does where you are located have anything to do with the chances of the girls getting it if I don't vaccinate? I really am considering doing this but I was just wondering.  any suggestions on how to prepare them for breeding?


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## [email protected] (Sep 18, 2008)

I don't think location has anything to do with it. I give it also, but as part of my pre-kidding routine.


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## EmyAcres (Jul 3, 2013)

Ok so when you say pre-kidding you mean not before being bred but before kidding? So it doesn't matter when I give it to my girls just that they get it? Sorry so many questions :/ just trying to learn. Thank you!


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## MF-Alpines (Mar 29, 2010)

EmyAcres said:


> Ok so when you say pre-kidding you mean not before being bred but before kidding? So it doesn't matter when I give it to my girls just that they get it? Sorry so many questions :/ just trying to learn. Thank you!


Yes. I think most people give the booster pre-kidding.


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## [email protected] (Sep 18, 2008)

EmyAcres said:


> Ok so when you say pre-kidding you mean not before being bred but before kidding? So it doesn't matter when I give it to my girls just that they get it? Sorry so many questions :/ just trying to learn. Thank you!


Yes. I give my to-be ff their initial vac at 100 days bred, and then their booster at 120 days bred along with their CDT and Pasturella booster. All other does (2nd, 3rd, 4th, etc fresheners) get their yearly booster at 120 days bred along with the other boosters also. I like them to have that strong immunity going into kidding/milking and to have it in their colostrum to also help protect kids.


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## EmyAcres (Jul 3, 2013)

Ok! Thank you!! So let me ask this one of my does has had her CD&T before I bought her but my other hasn't so will Ellie (doe that has had it) get just a booster of it? I know that you are supposed to give it and then 21 days later( I believe could be wrong on that) give it again to seal it. Is the booster any different? Thank you Denise!!


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## MF-Alpines (Mar 29, 2010)

Once they've had the initial vax plus booster(s), it is yearly after that. Again, most will give any vax a booster pre-kidding so that immunity passes through to the colostrum for the kids.


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## [email protected] (Sep 18, 2008)

Yup. Initial, then a booster 21 days later. Then yearly. So your doe who has never had a CDT, would get the initial plus 21 days later. I would do that now, and then a booster pre-kidding.
I'm a bit different with CDT. I do twice a year boosters. Pre-breeding and pre-kidding. Pre-breeding because my goats tend to *travel* to breed or be bred. And pre-kidding for the immunity in the colostrum. We have linear appraisals tomarrow (at a host herd--SherrieC's), so all goats going got their CDT today. Sugar, my buck, will be staying there for breeding and 10 out of 12 of my does will be *traveling* to three different herds next month to be bred.


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## EmyAcres (Jul 3, 2013)

Ok!! Thank you!! I talked with the lady will be breeding them today and she was telling me that my girls are not big enough! And that I need to feed them more. Ellie weighs 105lbs and is 10 months old and Hope is 81 lbs and is 7 months old she said that Ellie should weigh over 120! I was wondering what you thought about that? She also said that I may should wait until January to breed my younger doe. My DH is always saying that Ellie is fat but I have read about it and she isn't 'fat' but just has a healthy rumen as she has a round belly. I thought she was big???


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## doublebowgoats (Mar 6, 2008)

Anything over 100lbs would be plenty big enough to breed here.


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## Rose (Oct 26, 2007)

It is part of my kid protocol. I do not give it when a goat is pregnant.

I give the initial dose and the booster dose to doelings.


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## [email protected] (Sep 18, 2008)

EmyAcres said:


> Ok!! Thank you!! I talked with the lady will be breeding them today and she was telling me that my girls are not big enough! And that I need to feed them more. Ellie weighs 105lbs and is 10 months old and Hope is 81 lbs and is 7 months old she said that Ellie should weigh over 120! I was wondering what you thought about that? She also said that I may should wait until January to breed my younger doe. My DH is always saying that Ellie is fat but I have read about it and she isn't 'fat' but just has a healthy rumen as she has a round belly. I thought she was big???


??? My (5) girls are about 5 1/2 months old and weigh from 75-100# (weighed them two days ago). They will all be bred next month. The heaviest is a *fatty*--if anything, I am worried about her not getting bred due to being a bit over-weight. I always seem to have one dry yearling--the fatty of the babies. 
Your girls weights are just about right-on. Most on here will tell you they should weigh their birth weight plus 10# per month minimum. Some breeders like to breed for ff to kid at 18 months or even not until 2 yrs old. It should be up to you (and your responsibility) when to breed, but if you don't have a buck... Well, I guess a buck's owner can refuse service. Seems silly though. 
Some would also say that being a newbie, that you should maybe get a couple kiddings under your belt before breeding an 80# 7 month old doe kid. If she has problems delivering and you have to go in, it is more difficult on a *smaller* doe. That 100+ lb Ellie.... I would get her bred.


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## MF-Alpines (Mar 29, 2010)

[email protected] said:


> Some would also say that being a newbie, that you should maybe get a couple kiddings under your belt before breeding an 80# 7 month old doe kid. If she has problems delivering and you have to go in, it is more difficult on a *smaller* doe. That 100+ lb Ellie.... I would get her bred.


I agree with this. If you are new, at least get them to 100 lbs before breeding. I still use this weight, but I've learned to look at a kid and say, ok, you're only 85 lbs, but you are well developed and can be bred. You, you're 85 lbs, but are a scrawny thing; you'll have to wait 'til next year.


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## EmyAcres (Jul 3, 2013)

Ok that helps ALOT!! Yes I am really concerned about my youngest doeling she is really narrow!! I have expressed my concerns several times about breeding her and the lady that is going to breed them said that she probably wouldn't breed her until January. Ellie is a good size I think.  Although I bought her at 8 weeks old and weaned her as she was dam raised and completely refused to take a bottle! But you would never know that now! Oh and I would never do that again either I know now that it wasn't the best idea to have done that even though her breeder said it was fine. Now if I can just figure out how to get her bred without having one left without leaving one behind!


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## [email protected] (Sep 18, 2008)

EmyAcres said:


> Now if I can just figure out how to get her bred without having one left without leaving one behind!


Oh, I did that! LOL  Guess I never thought about it because it was my first year. I'd bought two doe kids who were born in May and June. Took the one born in May to be bred in December and the one at home was fine--or at least I don't remember her being a problem. I did end up bringing the first one home in January, ALONG with the buck to breed the June baby. So I don't know if the May doeling would've been fine by herself or not. It may just be personality. All ya can do is try it and find out. You could see if you could barrow a *buddy* from the breeder for the one left at home... but they would probably fight more than be friends.  And about the time they become friends, it'd be time to switch back. LOL


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## jdavenport (Jul 19, 2012)

I just took my 2 girls at the same time, because they'r the same size and in heat at the same time. Nancy (owner of the buck) just kept them overnight and in the morning the deed was done. If you can't track their heats, then use the "buck effect." Take them to the buck for a short date, then take them back about 10 days later, usually just being around a buck will make them cycle 10 days later, then you can take them for their "real" date. Using a Buck rag can help track heats also, so you won't have to leave the doe at the buck's pen more than 1 night. Take a clean washcloth and rub it all over a stinky buck in rut and put it in a mason jar. If the doe goes bonkers when you open the jar, she is in heat.


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## EmyAcres (Jul 3, 2013)

Denise yes I have really thought about doing that seriously I think she would be fine!! At least long enough to get the job done!  I am going to try the buck rag thing that would be great if it really worked! Lol


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## EmyAcres (Jul 3, 2013)

Thanks Denise and Jennifer yaw have been ALOT of help!!!


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