# Adding EO's and/or FO's to Goat Milk Soap



## LostCreek (Aug 15, 2011)

Hi Everyone!!

Okay, so I FEEL like I have done my homework. I have read nearly every post/reply in the soap forum for a few months, and even took a one day CP soap making class at the local VoTech. I have my lye, lard, coconut oil, olive oil (not virgin or extra virgin), goat milk, oatmeal, and several EO's and FO's. I have familiarized myself with the lye calculator on thesage.com.

I'm going to do the lye over chunks of frozen goat milk, adding the lye slowly, and stirring often. 

When it comes to adding the EO's and FO's, though...I still need some clarification. Do I add the EO's and/or FO's at trace, just before pouring the soap into molds? Do I need to increase the amount of lye to accommodate the extra oil? If so, how do I determine how much extra lye to add? The FO's I'm using (Something Fabulous, Soap Creations brand) say that it can be added up to 1%, and goes on to recommend 3-9 drops of FO per 4 oz. bar of soap. I know that EO's are much stronger scented than FO's, and thus I should use less of the EO's...right? But, do I use about half the EO that I would FO?

Sorry to have gone on with the questions...just kinda feeling information overloaded. 

Thanks, in advance, for everyone's help.


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## hsmomof4 (Oct 31, 2008)

You do not add more lye. Amounts to add are normally calculated based on the weight of your oils in the recipe you are making. So you will see things like .5 oz PPO, which means 1/2 an ounce (.5) Per Pound of Oils in the recipe. That is often a good starting point, but how much you eventually use is determined to a point by the strength and quality of the oils. For some, like peppermint, you might use less, as it is rather strong. For most CP soap, you will not usually see anyone using more than 1 oz PPO.

But let's talk about that fragrance that you have, specifically. Where did you get it? 1% is not very much at all; it would be .16 oz PPO (compared to the .5 mentioned above). If that is the limit for it, I would venture to say that it will not work in CP soap and that it is designed for use in Melt and Pour soap instead. Finding fragrance locally that is suitable for CP soap is generally going to be limited to picking up EOs at a health food store (and that's a very expensive way to do things).


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## hsmomof4 (Oct 31, 2008)

Oh, and to answer your other question, as to when to add the fragrance, it depends.  Some people add it at trace, some people add it along with the other oils. If you haven't made any soap yet, I would make a first batch with no fragrance at all, since fragrances can affect the behavior of the chemical reaction (often, speeding things up) and it is better to have a good handle on how the whole thing proceeds before you add another variable into the equation.


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## LostCreek (Aug 15, 2011)

Thanks a mint!

I have only made one batch of soap thus far. That was the CP batch we made in the class I took--just plain ol' soap...no scent, color, or milk.

hummmmmm. :/

The "FO's" are from Hobby Lobby, and are made by a company (Something Fabulous Soap Creations...or Endless Possibilities) in Oklahoma City which just so happens to be owned by Hobby Lobby. The EO's also came from Hobby Lobby, and seem to be more substantiative. They are made by a company called "Bolek's Craft Supplys Inc." (and that is how they spelled supplies) out of Dover, Ohio.

I'm gonna mix some sample batches tonight/tomorrow for my guinea pigs (mostly some friends & family I can trust for an honest opinion, AND some FB friends from around the states). I would really like to try a batch with each of these FO's: Honey Almond, Lilac, and maybe a Fresh Rain or Baby Powder. Would you recommend I stick to the "upto 1%" and just use .16 oz PPO, or use the 0.5 oz. PPO?

Thanks, again!


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## LostCreek (Aug 15, 2011)

OR,

Should I skip using these FO's altogether, and just make a batch with each of the EO's. This would limit me to 2 batches (3 if I make one unscented), but it's about getting the quality right before I start trying to sell bad soap.

I really appreciate you're helping out.


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## hsmomof4 (Oct 31, 2008)

I would not use those FOs in CP soap. I went to the Hobby Lobby website and a review of the Honey Almond said that it seizes CP soap instantly. I don't think that it can possibly be designed to work with CP soap, based on the percentage allowed in the product (you wouldn't even smell it at that amount), and I would not ruin my soap by using it. At best, you might be able to use it in a rebatch, after the soap has already been made, but probably not even then.


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## tlcnubians (Jan 21, 2011)

I have never heard anything good about the fragrance oils sold at Hobby Lobby. I would stay far, far away from them. I'd strongly encourage you to purchase a couple of good FOs from a reputable company that specializes in soapmaking supplies . . . Brambleberry, Wholesale Supplies Plus, Sweetcakes, Aroma Haven. As Stacey said above, the usual amount of fragrance added to soap is .5 to 1 ounce per pound. Also be aware that some floral and spice fragrances will accellerate trace. Lavender essential oil is probably the best-behaved and best-lasting essential oil for beginning soapmakers. Lemongrass EO runs a close second. Patchouli and Peppermint are also well behaved and either can be combined with Lavender. I always have extra fragrance oils sitting around if you'd like to pick up a couple at deeply discounted prices, send me an email. Caroline


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## Lynn_Theesfeld (Feb 21, 2010)

:yeahthat


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## MF-Alpines (Mar 29, 2010)

And NEVER buy your eo's from a health food store. Too expensive and probably diluted with a carrier oil.


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## Greylady (Mar 28, 2012)

I have some that are the NOW brand. Are these a no no also for CP Soap? I used them to make body scrubs at one time.


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## NubianSoaps.com (Oct 26, 2007)

Betty once you do this awhile you will get it. Places like you have said are buying in bulk just like we are, they then dilute down their product and sell in tiny little dram bottles making a thousand percent markup at least. Vicki


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## Anita Martin (Dec 26, 2007)

And when pouring lye over the milk chunks, if you add it slowly you are going to have some milk that melts on the outside of the cubes and then starts burning and turning yellow, meanwhile you still have a lot of lye to add. I have always just dump my lye over the frozen cubes and then start the stirring process immediately, mostly just trying to get a lye coating on all the cubes, as it begins to melt down you can stir more. Yes, I do let it set a couple of minutes between stirs. I end up with white milk that has not yet started to fume. My last step is to hit it with a stick blender, getting a little milk/lye up on the sides of my container to make sure there are no unmelted lye crystals. 

Never buy any type of soap making supplies from hobby lobby or anywhere else that does not specialize in cold process soaping. They sell to very small time crafters making melt and pour soaps and frankly, any scent I have ever bought at a hobby store never made it through cold process and thank goodness because they all stunk and gave me an instant headache. Very poor quality.


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## Trysta (Apr 5, 2011)

I have been (pretty recently :biggrin) where you are right now! Thank goodness for this forum, where i have learned all I needed to know so far (I still have loads to learn, though). I have always dumped my lye onto the frozen milk in two parts, stirring well. Never used the stickblender in there. I always add my FOs and EOs at trace and then stir with the stick blender again to get trace back. I also add things like coloring and oatmeal at that time. That way, if they mess with your soap and accelerate it, you were already just about ready to pour it in the mold anyway!

I bought my first FOs at SOS. Some were great, others not super. I also bought some very good ones from Aroma Haven who now changed their name to....what is it again? Somethinhg like esscentials? Bot companys sell small size bottles if you want to try it first and that's very affordable and handy (of course in the end it's much cheaper to buy larger amounts)

You say your olive oil isn't virgin: I think I heard that it's very important that the Olive oil is virgin....experienced soapers, please help me out: why was that again?


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## MF-Alpines (Mar 29, 2010)

Trysta said:


> You say your olive oil isn't virgin: I think I heard that it's very important that the Olive oil is virgin....experienced soapers, please help me out: why was that again?


I have never once heard this. I use Grade A and have also used Pomace. No issues with either.


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## NubianSoaps.com (Oct 26, 2007)

Yep Pomace here. And with all the info about most olive oils being cut, unless you are buying with an European label, I wouldn't be spending the money to be buying expensive olive oils to soap. And it certainly is only label appeal considering it's sap values are so close to other less expensive oils. So if you are going to label extra virgin, I would be using a lot less of it. Vicki


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## Trysta (Apr 5, 2011)

Good to know!!


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## tlcnubians (Jan 21, 2011)

Yep, pomace olive oil is the best way to go for soapmaking.


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## Faye Farms (Sep 14, 2009)

I use pomace too. I just don't see the need to go to a higher grade OO just for soap.


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## Dorit (Apr 20, 2011)

I have been (pretty recently :biggrin) where you are right now! Thank goodness for this forum, where i have learned all I needed to know so far (I still have loads to learn, though). :yeahthat 
People on the forum are very generous with information but nothing is as informative as trial and error. I made about 5-6 batches before I figured out what trace is. And then there are volcanoes and ricing (which, BTW, I don;t know what it is) and seizing, all a learning process. I offer you one very important lesson I learned through trial and error: combine oils and lye at room temp. I premix my oils and let them sit for days and pour out as I need it. I also premix lye/water. I save those chores for when I am too tired to think; my SOP is to do something in the soap room daily, even if its just cleaning up. Ask as much as you need to, get good at it and then you can be of help to newbies. Dorit


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