# Help!? Coloring goat's milk soap!



## BearKat0205

:help
I am having a hard time getting good colors in my goats milk soap! The base is more yellow than water based soaps, so my reds are turning orange and my bllues to green. I am using pigments to color along with herbs. Any advice would be greatly appreciated!
Christy


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## Frank

Hi
i used natural colour clays to my soaps and they turn out very good.


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## NubianSoaps.com

ellensessentials.com has really good photos up of the differences between colors with goatmilk and without...both with herbs but also her peacock colors which I love. I also have great luck with the colors, Mica's and clays especially but also their other colors at newdirectionsaromatics.com their Mica's are EXCELLENT!!! Their copper and gold are simply beautiful as on the top of the bar swirls as texture on soap. I just moved one of my soaps to that copper mica it's so pretty and is perfect for more masculine soaps, they also carry dead sea mud which is also a nice swirl material. Vicki


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## MF-Alpines

What is your lye strength solution? The more milk you have in relation to lye, the easier it is to get a whiter soap that won't change the colors so much. Are you freezing the milk? This slows down the reaction so you get a whiter batch to start with, also. And you can't let the lye sit in it, you have to stir, stir, stir until the milk cubes are melted, stick blend for a bit, then pour into your oils. Oil choice can also affect base color, as well. 

ps. I don't use pigments or micas so I really don't know how they behave or misbehave. I have finally been able to get a blue using natural colorants that don't turn green, although at first look, they look green. But then it cures to blue. For me, red is out of the question.


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## BearKat0205

I actually lessened the amount of goats milk to water ratio because I thought it would be more yellow with more milk.


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## BearKat0205

and yes I am freezing it


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## hsmomof4

Yes, it would be more yellow with more milk, as opposed to water or some other less-reactive liquid; Cindy's point was that if you were using ALL milk, using more milk dilutes the lye more, meaning less burning of your milk. And she's right that you can't let it sit at all. People talk about dissolving their lye and then letting it sit a bit to cool off before combining it with the oils, but that doesn't work with milk...it just continues to cook.


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## NubianSoaps.com

It continues to burn the sugar and get darker because the lye is reacting to the fat in the soap and saponifying it, there isn't enough fat in soap to merry with all the lye so it starts getting thick, a darker and darker yellow. I think these pre-sapped fat pieces is the dots on the top of your soap. Making a full milk soap for the swap for the first time in years, I remembered quickly why I moved away from that technique, it is uncontrollable and a labor eater. It had to have added 10 more minutes to my soaping, just melting the milk with the lye. It's not a technique I would want to have to use past hobby soaping. Vicki


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## BearKat0205

was wondering, can you make a cp soap and freeze just water? No goats milk. Does that still work?


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## hsmomof4

Absolutely. I almost always freeze my liquids for soaping...cuts way back on the fumes and helps keep temps down.


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## MF-Alpines

hsmomof4 said:


> Absolutely. I almost always freeze my liquids for soaping...cuts way back on the fumes and helps keep temps down.


 :yeahthat


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