# Need some help



## cheesemoose (Jun 23, 2010)

I have been following some of the topics on using goat milk. There does not seem to be a recipe or goat milk soap. Would some of you please share. Looking more towards the commercial side.


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## NubianSoaps.com (Oct 26, 2007)

Liquid is liquid  Use your favorite recipe, expand it out to fill your commercial molds, or pour several molds with one pour. 

If in your recipe it calls for 40 ounce of lye, than use 40 ounces of water to dissolve the lye. Cooled, add it to your butters and oils, and blend, when it is in emulsion it is then safe to add your milk, use the milk as the other ounces of liquid be it 20 ounces or 40 more ounces depending on how deep you discount your water. I do this with coconut milk, almond milk, aloe vera juice, pomegrante juice and cucumber, and this is how I make my goat milk soap also.

A good recipe is of course the walmart recipe, just make sure you can sell a commercial bar of soap that contains lard. IF not you will have to move to palm etc....

Clear as mud? Vicki


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## cheesemoose (Jun 23, 2010)

Thanks for info. I want to establish 5-6 good soaps I can start to sell. What are the best alternitives or lard? I was reading the post about blocks. I know a guy that his busuness is building HPDE tanks and I am talking to him about building me some molds out of his scrap. Thinking o going with the quad mold?????


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## hsmomof4 (Oct 31, 2008)

Palm is a good sub for lard if you need it to be veggie. Run through a calculator, though. Lard and tallow both make awesome soap...whether you can sell it depends on your area and where you want to sell your soaps. I have no problems selling soaps with either or both of those fats, and from a "green" perspective, since I source mine locally and render it myself, it's actually better than buying unsustainably farmed palm from halfway around the world (you _can_ get sustainably farmed palm). Not that that matters to a vegan!


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## NubianSoaps.com (Oct 26, 2007)

Until you get a commercial tip pot soapequipment.com you are at the mercy of how much you can safetly pour. Which for me is a 5 gallon bucket, I usually only do 2 or 3 pours with it and then move down to my 3.5 gallon bucket because I am tired by then, one day I will soap during the day, but right now I only soap at night, just finished up an it's 1 am.

And visit the soapequipment.com and sit and watch the commercial soaping process with block molds. And if you come up with custom cutters for slabs, logs and bars, tell us!

I can't tell you enough how much I love my Kelsie molds...so if you are going to make them like that, with your side walls sitting snuggly into a dado that is in the bottom section. This way you can easily pop them apart, line your bottom of the mold with seran wrap, get the commercial one at Sams, then pound the side into the bottom holding the wrap in place, using a rubber hammer.

After figuring out what size bars you want to end up with, make your molds deeper than your bars are on the long side, this way you are only having to cut bars, not cut slabs of soap out of a block, and then those slabs into logs, you are pouring logs.

If you go to Kelsie you can see the Vicki mold, the two deviders come out so I am pouring all 3 logs at once and then slipping the deviders into place. I can pour 72, 6 ounce bars quickly and efficently in about 20 minutes (premixed oils, pre mixed 50/50 lye) clean up and on to the next scent.

I would want to be using tried and true scents that you have used many many times before I poured 25 pounds or 50 pounds of soap into blocks, if you overheat this soap it will crack....made out of HPDE a block would be heavy also.

Someone on here had a friend make her molds out of corian, they were cheaper than the molds I use, but being 54, with the weight of the soap already, added to the increase of the mold weight itself, I just didn't want to go with a heavier mold.

When you move to a commerical mold, you had better have everything already set in stone, your bar size, how you are going to cut your bars today and what can you move to...is it going to mean yet more custom purchases? Cutters?

And share with us what you end up doing!


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## papat (Jul 24, 2011)

when you use the pre mixed lye do you have to heat it up or use at room temp


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## Faye Farms (Sep 14, 2009)

Just use the premixed lye at room temp. In the winter you will want to keep it in a heated area though. I had some lye get really cold in the winter and it crystalized on me.


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## cheesemoose (Jun 23, 2010)

The mold I am trying to gt made will look like the one in this picture


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## cheesemoose (Jun 23, 2010)

So i I understand the GM can replace any or all of the liquid portion on a recipe. But if the lye water portion of the mixtue is strong or straight lye into the milk you can damage the GM, so with stronger lye the GM must be chilled or even frozen to protect it. Does the GM add to the fat/oil content of the ly calculator?


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## NubianSoaps.com (Oct 26, 2007)

No, there isn't enough fat in milk to mess with the percentages. If you really look at your printed out recipe, I use thesage.com you can realy move that amount of fat or lye around a great deal without changing much of anything. So that small amount of fat in goatsmilk, even using cream or coconut milk it doesn't effect recipes I use at all.

I like the mold, but I would not want it how it is done. Your leaking is only dependant upon the toggle bolts which you will eventually put so much strain on to keep it together it will crack on the edge. You want a tray bottom, with a groove routered all the way around it that the sides fit into. My sides are all screwed together, permanently, so the sides make a box, that you then set in the grooves and using a rubber hammer bang them in place. Then toggle bolts go up and down to hold it together (I have never had to use them in hundreds of pours). Then just like this mold you are showing, the middle sections push down, making your slab mold into a log mold.

That little bit of difference on the bottom of your mold, my molds are white so it's really hard to get a good photo of them but I could try, with it apart....really makes so much of a difference!


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## cheesemoose (Jun 23, 2010)

Mine will probably be white also. The sides are rabbitted into the bottom as well as into each other and the dividers also are into rabbits in the sides. This will be made from 3/4" HPDE I dont think it will crack


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## cheesemoose (Jun 23, 2010)

Do want to do aleast one soap no lard. What is best choice to replace lard


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## hsmomof4 (Oct 31, 2008)

Palm, if you are wanting veggie. Tallow, otherwise.


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## tlcnubians (Jan 21, 2011)

Crisco would be my choice, or the vegetable shortening sold by Columbus Oils' Soaper's Choice.

Caroline


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## NubianSoaps.com (Oct 26, 2007)

Caroline, Crisco and the solid veggy shortenings are only solid because they are hydrogenated, they are in the end the same as using liquid soybean oil. They are also not considered a hard oil like lard, tallow or palm...so you would be making an all oil soft bar by subing with it. If you want to use soy in a recipe, why go to the hassel of melting crisco, just use the veggy oil at Walmart or Sams it is 100% soy.

David couldn't see that the sides went into the bottom of the molds, that is perfect, a little harder to take apart than how my molds are made...I dont' have to take anything apart, I simply slide a screw driver into a divet that is made in the botton and it wedges up the side, which comes off as one big peice, pull off the saran wrap and then push down, and the soap slides out. Vicki


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## tlcnubians (Jan 21, 2011)

Sorry Vicki, been making soap for almost 10 years using either crisco or the solid veg shortening and haven't noticed a lack of hardness in my bars. It's the recipe I teach also. My customers have always complimented me on how much longer my soaps last than the commercial ones they were used to purchasing.

Caroline


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